Saturday, October 15, 2011

The Ukraine, the Ukrainians, and the friends

Born and raised in Beijing, China, married to a Japanese, lived in the authentic American midwest for a decade, now settled in SF Bay Area, and loving it for its cultural diversity, I have this obsession on cultural experiences.  This trip to Ukraine, yet, is most certainly one of my few best memories.

The trip was a hard to get experience for many reasons.  One of them is that, since I was fortunate enough to go with a friend coming from there, I was able to experience those a regular tourist wouldn't be able to experience, taking public transportation, being briefed on the cultural highlight and historical events that are associated with the sites, and more particularly, meeting the friends and have my own true real personal contact with today's Ukrainians of my generation.  The Ukrainians and the Chinese have so much in common in the past for my generation, but of course it takes such rare chances for us to meet, to communicate, and to get to see for ourselves the commonalities.  And that is one of what I truly enjoyed the most of the entire trip.

The Ukraine and Ukrainians

Ukraine hasn't quite developed its tourism yet.  When I arrived at Kiev International Airport, I was surprised to find that it was rather a very small airport.  When entering the immigration, I found that the system there weren't even prepared for tourism.  There were only 2 English words, "Ukrainians" and "diplomats".  Knowing I was neither, I went to ask an officer where I should line up.  But apparently we couldn't find a communicable language, she randomly pointed me to a line, where later she decided to pull me out from (only after I inched to the front of the line).

The residential neighborhood in Kiev reminds me so much my childhood home.  Building styles in different eras match between the two countries in almost lockstep fashion.  There are stores all around the neighborhoods, for food and daily supplies.  What we did not have was the children's playgrounds attached.

I did not see any homeless on the street anywhere in Ukraine.

It is probably no surprise that there are beer stands every corner in Ukraine.  In fact it doesn't need a corner to have a stand.  What I thought was cool was "beer to go".  They provide plastic bottles, like those coke bottles here, so that you could get draft beer on the tap to go.  If only I knew this one a couple of decades earlier, I would surely have moved myself to Ukraine not U.S.

But a week in Ukraine, I did not see a single drunken waste on the street.  Maybe I was just lucky.  But I also did not see broken glasses or bottles on the street serving as evidence of alcohol as social problem.

Most men I saw on Kiev's streets wore polo shirt, slacks, and leather shoes.  Jeans is less, but not uncommon, however.  Females usually dress more elegantly than those in the U.S., I would say.  More skirts.  Not many in shorts with t-shirts in flipflops, men or women (much less possible for women, seems).  Oh, I did not see a single butt crack, not on the street.  Not that all butt cracks are gross, but not seeing them on the street may not be a bad thing.

It is common in U.S. that a gentleman opens doors for female.  But I am sensing that it is getting out of style little by little here too.  Don't remember seeing many door opening in Ukraine, but in the subway trains and buses, young males always give their seats to females and seniors.  I also encountered once that a young dad with his toddler son passing by a senior lady on the stairs with her sizable bag slowly walking up, the man took over the bag, went to the top of the stairs with it, placed the bag there, nodded back to the lady and went on.  Simple.

Maybe I was just too excited.  I did not frown that entire week.

Friends

Sergei's friends opened to me a great window to get to know the real Ukrainians personally.  I got to talk to them, make friends with them.  Before hand, I was prepared to stay sidelined, and watch the reunion parties going, since I was not in the friend circles, and more of it, the language.  But the kind friends did not get me to do that.  They made sure I was entertained too.  Through conversation with them, I get to know the great country and people better.  So here is the tribute to the wonderful friends.


In the picture are Julia (on the right), Tanya (middle), and Tanya's daughter.  Julia is Sergei's classmate from elementary (?, well, old timer for sure).

Tanya teaches in a university, chemistry (?).  Her husband Alexey is Sergei's backpacking and hiking buddy.  As for how far back into the history, my impression of it is from college time, but I can't remember for certain.

The young girl, I need to get her name again (forgot), is a sweet and quiet little girl.  She was the only child of that night, aside from a 1 year old baby (Julia's).  She managed to entertain herself, completely self sufficient.

There is Sveta on the right end of the picture, only half of her in.  I just realize that I do not have a good shot of herself.  She is pretty and shy.  But that didn't stop her from making the effort talking to me.  Everyone did.

From right, Lesh, Julia's husband, also Sergei's childhood classmate, a new parent.  This is right in front of his home.  Sergei grow up right here too.  His building is right behind the one in the background.

Alexey, Tanya's husband, Sergei's backpacking buddy, a musician and web designer.  As tall as Sergei, which would make him 6'4".

Then Sergey himself.

Lesh, and family.  "Lesh" is a kind of fish.  His real name is Alexey.  Everyone here has a nickname.  They don't call Sergei Sergei, but Motus.  No idea what that means.  But that is off the point a bit.

Friends, right to left, Boris, Sergei, Svieta, Lesh, Julia, and Alexey.

Boris is one that picked me up upon my arrival, with his wife Lena, and Sergei (of course).

This is from another evening.  Here is Lena driving, Boris next to her, with their kids, Sonia and Ilya, in the back.  Lena and Boris were the ones that picked Sergei up at the airport, then 8 hours later picked up me.

During our short stay, Boris is the one and only that didn't miss a single party.

This is Gulia's house.  Gulia is a character, and a math wizard, Sergei told me.  A house like this in Kiev isn't common.  Gulia must be doing well.  But you can't really find a guy more laid back than Gulia.  He is the only pair of slippers I saw on the street in the entire Kiev.  And as it looked to me, he is just always quiet and happy.  It takes a lot of weeds for some people to get there.  For him, it seems natural.


Gulia has a pond to his backyard.


From right to left, Sergei, Andrey, Lena.


Ivan and Katya, Andrey and Tanya's kids.

Sergei and Katya.  Lena in the background.

Naked friendship.  After a round of Sauna.  From right to left, Olga, me, Gulia, Boris, Lena, Tanya.

As I learned, sauna is a very popular social event in the parties.  New homes often have built sauna rooms, so does Gulia's.  So it became a good friends' hang out place.

Not too long ago I read in the picture book "A Day in the Life of the Soviet Union" (apparently old), that it is common to slap veniki against

wet skin in sauna.  And that is precisely what Lena gave me, a massage as she called it.  Veniki is a bundle of birch twigs with leaves.  The veniki needs to be pre-collected, sit dry for certain time (days??).  Prior to use, they will be soaked for some while.  If too dry, the leaves will fall off too soon.


Right to left, Olga (legs only in this one), Tanya, me, Gulia (back), Lena (front), and Boris.



Sunday, October 9, 2011

Ukrainian Food journal

I couldn't have had a better tour guide.  During the short 7 day trip, Sergei put me to try non but Ukrainian specials.  Here I would chronicle the food I tried.  Regretfully however, taking pictures wasn't always my instinct when seeing food.


Day 0 - the night of my arrival



Vodka, a very friendly drink :-)
Schnitzels, pork and fish.
Russian bread.
Ukraian bread.











Day 1 - Kiev downtown,  street food


Kvass.
Crepe with cheese filling
                  mushroom and onion
                  garlic, carrot, and other vegie











Day 1 - Kiev downtown, Uzbek food


We were on the way to Sergei's parents place for dinner.  When we passed by this Uzbek restaurant, we just had to try something there.

The setting seems nomadic.  Here is the hungry Sergei.


Cheburek (turkish fried meat turnover) 

khachapuri (georgian cheese pie) 

Uzbek Samsa.  A variant of Samosa from India, except it is meaty.


The food was good.  The young man was kind enough to let me take a picture with him.


















Day 1 - Kiev, Sergei's parents' home


  - chicken noodle soup
  - meet balls

  - various jams, black berry, sour berry, and one other (thinking..)
  - Uzvar (dried fruits compote)
    traditionally made of dried pears, prunes, apricots, apples, and raisins
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uzvar#Uzvar


The uzvar was very tasty.  It was fruity,  very mildly sweet.  We also had red wine to drink, and Sergei's sister made tea.








Day 2 - Georgian bakery and soda shop


Right next to Ivan's Ukrainian Center of Folk Culture, there is this small shop of Georgia food and soda.

Sergei is setting our table over there.

The Georgian soda is called Lagidze water
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lagidze_water

The shop makes soda after order is made.  Since there are a lot of syrup, there are plenty of bees hovering around.

The food is quite similar to the Uzbek food we tried the day before, just as good.  They are very meat / cheese centric food.  I have a feeling I won't starve living in Georgia or Uzbek.










Day 2 - authentic Ukrainian food, drinks, and friendship







Pickled herring (there right in the middle of the table, next to the colorful salad).


Pickled herring is very good.  And I don't understand why yet again many Ukrainian friends were surprised I ate it.  I definitely think it is delicacy.  So is vodka.  :-)

This is IT.  It can't get any more Ukrainian than this, not even vodka.  Salo (pork fat) on a piece of Ukrainian rye bread.  I think I impressed a lot of Ukrainians telling them I ate pork fat.  It really wasn't bad at all.  Got admit, with help from vodka, nothing is impossible.

We also tried 3 different brands of vodka and some beer.  But don't I tasted beer on this day though.

Also somewhere there among other plates and bottles arepickled Opyata mushrooms, Shashlyk , Julienne beef with mushrooms and bechamel sauce.

Friends, right to left, Boris, Sergei, Svieta, Lesh, Julia, Tanya, and Alexey.

Since I don't have a better pic of Shashlyk, I had to use this one from wikipedia.  It was soo yummy.













Day 3 - Piroshki on the way


A restaurant of traditional Ukrainian food.

She kindly let me take a picture of her beautiful self, with the restaurant in the background, and food and flowers too.  Can't really make this picture any better, I would say.

Four different kinds of piroshki, with different fillings.  The one kind I like the most was cabbage.  The mushroom one was also very good.  Then I kind of forgot what the other 2 kinds were.











Day 3 - BBQ at Gulia's place




Beers, of course.  Ukrainian.

BBQ'ed sausages, French bread

Dried fruits.

Water melon.

And a lot of good time.













Day 4 - Lviv, brunch


While Sergei is studying the menu, let me take a few pictures of this stylish restaurant.


Silverware in a shoe.  I hope it hasn't been worn.


Two types of dumplings, one sour cherry and one cheese; blood sausages; and fried dumplings (already finished, sorry), and honey drinks, and much needed espresso.










Day 4 - Lviv, afternoon snack


No idea what time it was, but the sausages and beer was good.  Of course the beer is good, it is Ukraine.
















Day 4 - Lviv, dinner



Day 5 - Ternopil, best breakfast


This is the fun part.  Beer at a convenient beer shop (which is hardly any more than a stand), with dried fish.

Scales off.  Ready to eat.

The beer was great, but wouldn't be THAT great without this fish.  My next trip to Ukraine, among many other things, I will do that again.  What's good with Ukraine is, it ain't hard to find these stands.








Day 5 - Ternopil, lunch at a cafe



This is a good casual restaurant.  Food seem affordable to locals.  For me, it was another good experience.  Food was good, as always.


Our lunch.  Among others, beets (in the cup), very common Ukrainian food ingredient; and meat jelly.  What is interesting is, last time I had meat jelly was 20+ years ago when my beloved. grandma was the chef of my house.

We also had some dumplings here, sour cherry, Sergei's favorite, and ...  (thinking)

Need to train myself to be a better tourist.




Day 5 - Ternopil, dinner at Natalia's parents' farm



This is Natalia's parents' house on the farm, where we had dinner.

I never realized that I had never had REAL apples.  Those from grocery stores or even farmer's market don't even compare these.  The ripe apples actually are very juicy, so much that after a stomachful of tasty apples, I found my t-shirt was full of drips on the chest.  I am not trying to advertise my table manner, but dripping juice from eating apples was something I never experienced.

And the taste of these apple was indescribable.

Among other dishes, Natalia's mom made delicious meatballs.  They are more like this, but still somewhat different.  I should have taken my camera out.  Regret.  My stomach was quicker than my mind.

And cabbage rolls.  This is a picture taken from here.




Day 6 - Lunch at Sergei's parents' place


I have no pictures.  I only remember Sergei's mom cooked delicious roasted chicken.  It was probably nothing specially Ukrainian, but it was very good.  And in general, chicken is my least favorite bird, when it comes food, that is.




Day 6 - afternoon snack at Sergei's university, National Technical University of Ukraine